Luxury goods are in vogue like never before. In fact, 2007 was a record year for many manufacturers of luxury items. The share prices of these companies have also benefited, with luxury stocks having easily outperformed the Morgan Stanley Global Equity Index over the last six years. Many structural indicators suggest that this trend is set to continue.
The luxury goods industry continues to benefit from the fact that the rich continue to get richer. As a result, more and more money is spent on luxury goods. This phenomenon manifests itself strongly in the US, where the top 20% of earners account for 60% of total US income. Where assets are concerned the picture is even more extreme, with the wealthiest 1% owning 40% of total US assets. In the first three months of 2008, sales of high- end luxury goods in the US continued to display double- digit growth for most companies. At least, where high-end consumer goods are concerned, the anticipated slowdown in consumption has not been felt.
Not only is the luxury goods industry growing fast, it is also a very profitable business. This is hardly surprising given that luxury products tend to beautiful, of very high quality, but also very expensive. Consumers are evidently willing to pay a disproportionately high amount for the products of renowned luxury brands, not least because they are perceived to confer prestige and social distinction. Strong brands can thus dictate their prices. In historical terms, the prices of luxury goods have even risen faster than inflation, something that is only possible in very few industry sectors. As a result of the price-setting power enjoyed by luxury brands, the luxury goods business can be very lucrative, but here too, there are winners and losers.
Branding Is Key
What makes for a successful luxury brand? What luxury goods manufacturers represent good investment bets? For every company in the luxury goods industry, branding is the be-all and end-all. But owning a brand is just the beginning. There are countless examples of brands that have either been sold too expensively — and therefore never really made money — or successful brands that were not properly looked after, and even diluted. A successfully managed brand will display at least the following four characteristics.
First, a luxury brand must brook no compromises when it comes to product quality. Luxury consumers are prepared to spend large sums of money on brands, but in return they expect top quality when it comes to material, production processes and service. For example, the Kelly or Birkin handbags from Hermès will set the purchaser back more than 5,000 Swiss francs ($4,800). Despite these hefty price tags, these products have waiting lists. In return, the purchaser is assured of exclusive leather, painstaking hand-stitching and the right to have the bag repaired, even after many years.
Second, the brand needs to be clearly positioned. Every brand sends out a message that differentiates its products from those of other brands. Competition in the motorbike industry is strong. There are many manufacturers of motorbikes competing for the favor of bikers. But those who buy a Harley-Davidson acquire not just a motorbike, but also the Harley-Davidson lifestyle: freedom, independence and America. In this respect, Harley-Davidson has virtually no competition.
Third, successful brands are famous for their continuity. Consumers have expectations of the brands they buy. The Four Seasons hotel chain is renowned for its good service. All staff is subjected to a harsh training process designed to ensure that guests are satisfied in return. The hotel’s internal guidelines are very strict and highly client-focused. This is the only way the hotel’s high prices can be justified. The hotel’s guests can have high expectations, and will not be disappointed.
Innovation as sales argument
Finally, perhaps the most important of all the features of a successful brand is its ability to innovate. Consumers of luxury goods are quite sophisticated, and need to be continually seduced by new and attractive products to buy. After all, how many women nowadays actually need another new handbag? How many affluent men do not already own a watch? The proportion of new products in overall sales volumes is often considerable, depending on the brand and the product. The Porsche Cayenne, for example, launched just a few years ago, today accounts for more than a third of all Porsche models sold.
Hence the appeal of investing in luxury stocks. What are the opportunities and risks? The fundamentals appear outstanding. In Asia and the emerging markets, the number of consumers wanting to buy Western luxury brands is rising every day. The luxury product business generates so much cash flow that most companies have healthy balance sheets with very little indebtedness. The operating margin is often over 15%. Though among other things, this will depend on how much is spent on brand maintenance and marketing.
Luxury goods firms are currently spending large sums of money. Tapping into new markets requires great marketing expenditure, and this can often account for up to 40% of sales revenues. The smaller the brand, the proportionally greater the marketing investment. This is where large companies, which enjoy economies of scale, can benefit most.
The same is true of the opening of luxury boutiques, for which only the most expensive and most coveted locations can be considered. These investments in the future of brands are both necessary and good business. However, unexpected events such as the outbreak of bird flu or other unforeseeable crises can lead to short-term collapses in sales in the luxury goods industry, with consequences for profit margins.
Another risk — albeit more for the much more volatile luxury stocks than the luxury goods industry itself — is a further strengthening of European currencies against the dollar and the Asian currencies. The fact is that most luxury goods companies continue to manufacture the majority of their products in Europe, yet export them around the world. Exchange rate fluctuations can be compensated for through price adjustments over the long term, however. In recent years, investors in luxury goods stocks have made handsome profits. Given the healthy fundamentals of the luxury goods industry, it is only fair to assume that this will continue to be the case in future.
Fady Eid is General Manager for Credit Suisse (Lebanon Finance) S.A.L