In the arena of Lebanese architectural heritage some combatants are better at the game than others. Today activists, archaeologists, politicians and real estate developers have entered the stadium to battle it out over what is probably Lebanon’s oldest sporting venue. At issue is the fate of a Roman-era hippodrome downtown in Wadi Abu Jamil. Unchecked construction and the rush to build mega-sized steel and glass towers have taken a toll on historical sites in the city for nearly 20 years. The hippodrome site is privately owned and most of it has already been developed and built over, but a remaining plot of land in the middle of the former track has become the focus of many interests, all angling for different outcomes. Some two thousand years ago the hippodrome hosted horse and chariot races. Today, it sits neglected in the heart of Beirut’s rebuilt downtown of exclusive villas and upscale