The tale of two Ammans

Jordan is often said to be divided, both demographically and politically, between so-called “real” Jordanians and those of Palestinian descent. Yet that is hardly the only fault line lurking below the relative peace that has reigned over the Hashemite Kingdom in recent decades. The capital, Amman, for example, is like an apple split into two unequal halves. West Amman is rich and spacious, dotted with grand villas complete with lavish lawns and pools. Here one finds French supermarket chains, luxury hotels and foreign embassies. Here live the diplomats, aid workers and just about every Jordanian who “made it”. Here when they eat, the choice is between sushi, steak or pizza. East Amman, on the other hand, is a giant beehive of cheap concrete in desperate need of a lick of paint. Here live most of Amman’s 2.8 million people on a variety of bread and beans. The city’s east and