The quickest way to get to Karup in the North West of Jutland from Copenhagen is to take a 45-minute internal flight. Looking out of the 50-seater, ATR 42 turbo prop, this part of Denmark is as you would expect: flat farming country, dotted with wind turbines and lakes. In nearby Stuer, one is faced with the full Danish eco-friendly living experience: Bike-riding families and couples pulling toddlers in tasteful wooden trailers. Those who choose to drive cars, have sensible Renault Scenics and Volvo station wagons. Even the clothes are utilitarian: sandals and cargo pants; all stout walking kit. There is not one piece of litter to be seen and crossing the traffic light on red creates ripples of disapproval among the good citizens. This is the land where women get 12 months maternity (Danish men get six months to help with the nappy changing and other nurturing duties). It
