Olvia Haggipavlu stopped to take in the huge concrete vats at Etko, the Cypriot winery her family founded in 1844. “These tanks used to fill ships that would carry bulk wine all over the world, to Sudan to Russia and to Sierra Leone.” Etko is Cyprus’ oldest winery and, along with three other producers, until 20 years ago dominated the Cypriot wine sector. The “big four,” — Etko, Geo, Sodap and Loel – as they were, and are still, known produced tens of millions of liters of wine that were sold in bulk to the world, though mainly to the former Soviet Union. The vats are now empty and bulk wine is no longer the mainstay of the Cypriot winemakers. The collapse of the USSR, a decline in Cypriot grape growing culture, a severe drop in the annual rainfall — there was none in the 2008 season — and huge
