The tale of two Ammans

  Jordan is often said to be divided, both demographically andpolitically, between so-called “real” Jordanians and those of Palestiniandescent. Yet that is hardly the only fault line lurking below the relativepeace that has reigned over the Hashemite Kingdom in recent decades. The capital, Amman, for example, is like an apple split intotwo unequal halves. West Amman is rich and spacious, dotted with grand villascomplete with lavish lawns and pools. Here one finds French supermarket chains,luxury hotels and foreign embassies. Here live the diplomats, aid workers andjust about every Jordanian who “made it”. Here when they eat, the choice isbetween sushi, steak or pizza. East Amman, on the other hand, is a giant beehive of cheapconcrete in desperate need of a lick of paint. Here live most of Amman’s 2.8million people on a variety of bread and beans. The city’s east and west meetat the Husseini Mosque in downtown which, though