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Feeling the pressure

by Michael Karam

It all seemed to be going so well for Lebanese wine. Once the sole preserve of Musar, Ksara and Kefraya, the sector has, since the late 90s, seen the emergence of new wineries, producing exciting wines in eye-catching bottles. The UVL (Union Vinicole du Liban), established in 1997, showed it could function as a genuine association. It was serious about establishing a regulatory national wine institute and there was even a spirited initiative to sell Lebanon as a wine tourism destination. Its members even demonstrated rare ESPRIT DE CORPS by exhibiting on the same stand at the two major international wine fairs in London and Bordeaux in 2003. Lebanese wine was moving.

This momentum had been inspired by the knowledge that Lebanon was hosting the annual OIV (OFFICE INTERNATIONAL DE LA VIGNE ET DU VIN) congress in Beirut in June 2005. The event would enhance the country’s brand equity, strengthening its export potential and boosting its quality to price ratio. It would create a new image of Lebanon, one driven by wine and culture, rather than war and mayhem. Finally, UVL president, Serge Hochar, co-owner of Chateau Musar and for so long the darling of the wine world, the man who risked life and limb to make wine during the dark days of the war, would welcome the OIV to his country. It was to be a truly vintage year for Lebanese wine. And then, last month came the awkward admission from UVL members that the OIV had changed its mind. So far no official explanation has been given by the OIV for the seemingly sudden VOLTE-FACE and at the time of going to print, Frederico Castelluci, director general of the OIV has not replied to EXECUTIVE’s requests for clarification. “It is a huge loss to Lebanon,” said Charles Ghostine, managing director of Ksara, Lebanon’s biggest producer. “We have not yet received official notification; this will be sent to the Lebanese government. However, I do not hold much hope of the congress being held in Beirut next year.” Ghostine has more reason to be disappointed than most. In June of last year, he gave a speech at the OIV congress in Paris, in which he outlined Lebanon’s plans for 2005. “All 45 countries, including Israel, gave me a standing ovation,” he said. “We were meant to go to Vienna this summer to present our final itinerary. Then I get the call from Frederico Castelluci, telling me that there was a change of plan.”

Ghostine said Castelluci had told him that the reason for the change of venue stemmed from the organization’s doubt that Lebanon had the “technical ability” to manage some of the more scientific and linguistic aspects of the congress. “They need translators in five languages. This is not a problem. We can translate in six,” said Ghostine. Privately, wine producers believe pressure from the Israeli delegation was the main driving force behind the decision. “The OIV is a non-political body and therefore they cannot cite a non-political reason,” said one. “What can we do? We need them more than they need us.”

Ghostine’s frustration is evident when he talks of missed opportunities, especially in the export markets. “The recognition the congress would have bestowed upon us would have been priceless. To be honest we are still not fully established as a wine making force even though we have be doing it for 6,000 years,” he said. “The congress would have given up priceless exposure. Export markets are very important to us. Lebanon is exporting 40% of its wine.” UVL president, Serge Hochar was equally uncomfortable with the turn of events. “Until we have an official notification from the OIV, I prefer not to comment.” The demise of Beirut 2005 came as a surprise to many of those who had worked hard within the government to ensure it happened. “It’s the first I have heard of it,” said Basil Fuleihan, ex-economy minister and now the chairman of the Parliamentary Committee on Economic Affairs, Trade, Industry and Planning. “Quite frankly if it turns out to be true, it is very disappointing news for Lebanon and Lebanese wine.” While in office, Fuleihan lobbied hard for the congress and is a firm believer in the potential of the sector. “Lebanese wine needs to be supported. It is good for general prosperity; it’s good for exports and it’s good for the image of Lebanon.”

Teething problems

The news came at a time when the UVL has been experiencing delayed teething problems. In January, Massaya, one of the most energetic of the new generation of wine producers, resigned after it claimed the association was dragging its heels on an initiative to establish a wine marketing board and launch a national advertising campaign. A statement issued by Massaya, which had vigorously lobbied for the move, said that it was obvious that the interests of Massaya and the UVL were irreconcilable and that the winery had no option but to go it alone.

Elsewhere plans to establish a national wine institute (to be responsible for implementing the 2000 wine law and oversee and regulate all areas of grape growing and wine production) seem to be caught in a bureaucratic bottleneck. “We have prepared our draft constitution,” said Ghostine. “Now we are just waiting for government approval. We are confident our file is in order.” According to Hochar, its establishment is crucial to the evolutionary progress of the sector. Speaking in November of last year he announced: “We have joined the OIV and we have passed a wine law. Now we just need an institute to implement it,” he said. “We cannot move forward without it.” UVL members are energetic exhibition-goers, although last month only three producers – Musar, Ksara and Kefraya – made it to the London Wine Fair. The energy of 2003 appears to have waned. “The reason we all went to London last year was that we got money from the EU,” explained Massaya’s Ramzi Ghosn. “All this needs intensive lobbying on behalf of the UVL and this in turn requires time and effort. Nothing will come of nothing.”

Still, Lebanon’s $26 million wine industry is essentially filled with promise. The good news is that exports have doubled in six years and producers continue to consolidate proven international markets, while seeking out new ones. Ksara alone has doubled its exports and is consolidating its position in the UK, a market pioneered by Chateau Musar in the 70s and one that also proved successful for Kefraya, Massaya and Clos St Thomas. The future

The good news is there is room for further growth. “There is huge potential. Any collaboration with the wine growers has been done with the best interests of the sector at heart. I have not sensed any official reluctance,” said Fuleihan, stressing the government’s faith in the industry. “All the grievances have been addressed such as tariffs and taxation. Yes, the government has not yet developed a viable agro or industrial strategy but we cannot satisfy the entire spectrum of demands because of the existing financial constraint.”

What is certain is that the land is there for further planting, although many within the industry prefer to exercise caution. “We just cannot plant without a strategy,” said Paulette Chlela, Ksara’s Chef de Culture. “We have already seen grape prices drop by 10% in the last year because of a dip in demand.”

But the overriding belief is one of an opportunity that needs to be seized. “Wine is the only hope for the Bekaa,” believes Ghosn. “In some areas this reality is taking shape while in others it will take a bit more time. New grape plantations have changed the lives of many of the Bekaa’s struggling farmers, who have been forced to grow illegal hashish and opium, or produce that was severely undercut by those from neighboring countries. The landscape of many towns is changing as the demand for good TERROIR increases.”

Ghosn also believes that to best demonstrate the value-added Lebanon has to offer the wine world, more producers should improve viticulture methods, moving away from high to lower, more concentrated yields and use better quality grapes. “To do this, there will have to be significant replanting or restructuring of existing vineyards, the adoption of more up-to-date working methods, and new vineyards. This will mean further exploration of Lebanon’s different regions and TERROIR, including a formal study of the various soil types and viticultural potential.” However, as the sector grows, the incidence of malpractice will undoubtedly increase. The UVL must snuff out those producers tempted to push the ethical envelope and clamp down on the importation of foreign wine in bulk quantities, over-harvesting, medal sticker abuse, diluting and misrepresentation. “It has already started,” shrugged Dargham Touma, owner of the Heritage winery, alluding the increasing number of Syrian-made “Lebanese” wines that are reportedly finding their way into Lebanese and North African restaurants in France. The national institute cannot come soon enough.

Nor can a national marketing campaign, one that would emphasize the quality of Lebanese wine as well as educating the drinker on the health benefits of drinking and stress the economic importance of buying Lebanese. Already, the wines are facing an epic struggle in an evolved and viciously competitive drinks sector. “Whisky and Vodka are king,” exclaimed Touma. “External budgets are dictating consumer budgets. They are telling people what to drink and what not to drink.” Given many of the mediocre brands that are being pushed in the local market, it is sad that many of Lebanon’s best wines are unknown to local drinkers, who in a misguided exercise in snobbery often perceive foreign wines as better. Oz Clarke, the English wine guru has rated Clos St Thomas’ “Chateau” as “stunning”, while only last month Jancis Robinson, arguably an even bigger hitter than Clarke, raved about Massaya at a tasting in London.

Tell that to the OIV.
 

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Michael Karam

Michael Karam is the author of Wines of Lebanon.
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